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Patchouli oil is produced by steam distillation of the dried leaves of Pogostemon cablin (Blanco) Benth. (Lamiaceae). It is a reddish-brown to greenish-brown, more or less viscous liquid with a characteristic, slightly camphoraceous, woody balsamic odor.
d²⁰₂₀ 0.952–0.975; n²⁰_D 1.5050–1.5150; α²⁰_D ?60 ° to ?40 °; solubility: 1 vol in not more than 10 vol of 90% ethanol at 20 °C; acid number:max. 4; ester number:max. 10.
The patchouli shrub is cultivated primarily in Indonesia. It grows to 1m, but during harvesting, it is cut back to 10–15 cm. The oil yield from preferably sundried leaves is about 2%.
Although the sesquiterpene alcohol (?)-patchoulol is the main component of patchouli oil (27–35%), this compound contributes less to the characteristic odor of the oil than (+)-norpatchoulenol present only at a concentration of 0.35–1%. Other typical constituents are (+)-α-bulnesene (13–21%), (?)-α-guaiene (11–16%), (?)-β-patchoulene (1.8–3.5%), and (?)-seychellene(1–3%).

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Independent of its origin, the essential oil is a slightly viscous, brown liquid.

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The botanical properties of patchouli oil (Pogostemon patchouli)(patchouly) are described as astringent, anti-inflammatory, decongestive, and tonic. It can be stimulant in low doses, and sedative at high doses. Its botanical attributes make it useful for acne, aged and chapped skin, and skin redness. In Asia, it was a renowned antidote against insect and snake bites. Also used as a perfume in soaps and cosmetics to impart a long-lasting aroma. This oil has a strong, sweet, musty, and very persistent fragrance. The patchouli leaves are dried and fermented prior to distilla tion. It may produce an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals.

Essential oil composition

The main known constituents include benzaldehyde, eugenol, cinnamaldehyde, patchouly alcohol (a tricyclic alcohol, C15H260), two hydrocarbons (C15H24), and other minor unidentified components (Burdock, 1997).

Safety Profile

Low toxicity by ingestion and skin contact. A skin irritant. A combustible liquid. When heated to decompositionit emits acrid smoke and irritating vapors.

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